The 5 skincare products everyone should use

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Sunscreen

Sunscreen is usually the last thing you apply as part of your skincare routine (or at least it should be!). We’ve chosen to talk about it first as we feel it is the most important product you can use to prevent aging (other than Botulinum toxins- which you should compliment by using sunscreen anyway). 

Over 90% of sun damage is caused by incidental exposure such as the commute to work, short walks etc! UV radiation can lead to sunburn, accelerate skin ageing and stimulate skin discolouration (freckles and dark patches on the skin or age spots), so it is important to wear sunscreen everyday!
 
The most important thing to know about sunscreen is to only purchase a sunscreen which clearly states on the label that it is Broad Spectrum or has Multi Wave protection. If the sunscreen is cheap and does not say either of these on the labels, there is a good chance that it will only block out UVB rays (which will not protect you from skin cancer which is caused by UVA and UVB rays!)

Sunscreens come in 3 different forms:
-  Chemical- Neutralise the UV rays within the skin
-  Physical- form a physical barrier between your skin and UV rays (quite thick)
-  Hybrid- combine physical and chemical sunscreen (thinner in consistency to physical barriers)

Whilst a sunscreen and moisturiser combination is better than nothing, the moisturiser may dilute the sunscreen content and not provide you with the SPF protection stated on the packaging. So wherever possible use a moisturiser and separate sunscreen of at least SPF15. A broad spectrum SPF 15 is often lighter on the skin than SPF 30 and provides 95% protection from UV rays compared to 97% for SPF30. Remember to apply your sunscreen 30 minutes before leaving the house!

Tyrosinase Inhibitors

Tyrosinase Inhibitors are used to treat all forms of pigmentation of the skin, other than those caused by genetics.  They can act on other internal sources, such as Hormones and medications (such as the contraceptive pill) and external sources such as UV exposure and Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation. Tyrosinase Inhibitors work by blocking or sedating the production of melanin which causes your skin to have dark spots.

The most common over the counter Tyrosinase inhibitors are from plants (such as ascorbic acid-Vitamin C, Mulberry extract, Kojic acid etc). If over the counter medication is not doing enough to reduce your spots, doctor’s can recommend and prescribe stronger creams such as Hydroquinone (banned in Australia) or Azelaic acid.

It is advised that all skin undergoing resurfacing or rejuvenating (eg./Chemical peels, IPL, Laser Photo Dynamic Therapy) be prepped with Tyrosinase inhibitors to reduce the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Method of use:
Tyrosinase inhibitors should be applied twice daily for a minimum of  2 months. It is imperative to wear a broad spectrum sunscreen whilst using Tyrosinase inhibitors.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) are a group of water soluble naturally occurring acids found in nature and the human body.

Primary benefits:

• exfoliation (unlike most scrubs the AHA’s penetrate the skin to target dead cells and level off the peaks and troughs of the skin from within the skin. Scrubs simply rub off the top of the peaks without altering the skins surface)
• hydration (AHA’s stimulate Hyaluronic acid within the skin which provides moisture and resilience to the skin

An added benefit of AHAs is that they only target dead cells.

Best to use:

• lactic acid- (less aggressive and more hydrating than glycolic acid) and
• glycolic acid.

Beware using AHAs other than lactic and glycolic. You may find you are spending money for nothing as any other AHA molecule is often too large to penetrate into the skin so will provide little to no benefit.
It is also important to consider the following when choosing an AHA:

• Concentration: 7-14% is best
• pH: pH3-pH4.5 any higher will provide no active benefit
• Formulation: AHAs should not be contained in an oil based serum as they are a water soluble product. Should never be combined with retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) as the combination will de-activate the activity and potency of the retinoid.

Instructions for use:
You may feel a tingling sensation after application of an AHA. This is a good thing if the skin is tingling but staying the same colour. If your skin goes red after application, seek assistance from your skin specialist. Use for 6 months then just once a week / fortnight for maximum benefit.

 

Retinoids

Retinoids refer to any chemical compound related to Vitamin A (often known as the anti-aging vitamin). The main function of Retinoids is

• Resurfacing (Retonoic acid has the ability to affect cell formation hence it’s reputation to reverse skin damage)
• Exfoliation

 Retinoids act in a number of ways:

• Promotes collagen production and elastin
• Regulates cellular proliferation and differentiation
• Increase epidermal thickness

Like with AHAs the concentration of retinoids has a great effect on the effectiveness of the treatment. Retinoic acid is available only with a Doctor’s prescription and is the strongest Retinoid. Retinol and Retinaldehyde (Retinal) are both available in direct to the public skincare at effective concentrations, and are considered the best to use for the average individual. Many skincare ranges use Retinyl Palmitate which is a much ‘weaker’ form of retinoid, so in order to gain maximum benefit, avoid these products in favour of those which use Retinal or Retinol.

It is also important to use a Broad Spectrum Sunscreen to protect your skin which can will become more photosensitive when using retinoids.

Method of use:
Each individual will have a different reaction to Retinoids. It may be necessary to build up tolerance to the retinoid over one to two months in order to avoid a reaction (rednesss etc). Use twice a week, building up to every alternate evening and eventually to daily use for 6-12 months. After this time you should either give your skin a 6 month break, or continue to use bi-weekly.

It is always advised to seek the advice of your doctor if you become pregnant and would like to continue using Retinoids. 

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a versatile skin care ingredient as it promotes collagen synthesis, acts as an antioxidant and can be photo-protective. It can also act as a Tyrosinase inhibitor and lighten dark spots.

Beware… if your Vitamin C product has turned orange or brown, it may have oxidised and could actually do free radical damage! Many people find it easier to purchase a Vitamin C powder and mix it with a water based product to ensure it will work effectively.

All clients seeking treatment for pigmentation, telangectasia  (dilated blood vessels near the surface of the skin or mucous membranes) or aged skin should incorporate Vitamin C into their skincare regime. Smoking depletes the body of Vitamin C which is one of the reasons many smokers show accelerated signs of aging around the mouth and eyes, so it can be a very useful treatment these conditions also.

source :  http://www.antiaging.com.au/blog/